Exfoliation has a reputation for being the secret to glowing skin, but it is also one of the easiest ways to damage your skin barrier. Too much, too hard or too often, and you end up with redness, stinging and more breakouts instead of smoother skin.
This guide explains the difference between physical and chemical exfoliation, how often to exfoliate, and how to tell if you have gone too far.
Quick answer: how to exfoliate safely
- Choose a chemical exfoliant (BHA, AHA or PHA) over a gritty scrub.
- Start once or twice a week and increase slowly if your skin is comfortable.
- Use only one exfoliating product at a time.
- Do not exfoliate on the same night as a retinoid until your skin has adapted.
- Always moisturize and wear sunscreen the next day.
What exfoliation does
The outer layer of skin is made of dead cells that normally shed on their own. In acne-prone or dull skin, they can stick together, clogging pores and making skin look rough. Exfoliation helps remove this buildup, which can improve texture, brightness and breakouts. But the skin barrier protects you from irritation and infection, so the goal is a gentle nudge, not stripping.
Physical vs chemical exfoliation
Physical exfoliation
Scrubs, brushes and cloths remove dead cells through friction. Fine, soft tools can be fine for some skin, but crushed shells, seeds and rough sponges can cause micro-tears. For acne-prone skin, which is often inflamed, friction can make things worse.
Chemical exfoliation
Acids and enzymes loosen the bonds between dead skin cells. They are generally more even and gentle than scrubs when used correctly.
- BHA (salicylic acid): oil-soluble, good for oily, clogged skin. See salicylic acid for acne.
- AHA (glycolic, lactic, mandelic acid): water-soluble, good for dullness, rough texture and dry skin. Lactic and mandelic acid are milder than glycolic.
- PHA (gluconolactone): a gentler cousin of AHA, good for sensitive skin.
Which exfoliant is right for you?
- Oily, blackhead-prone: BHA 1% to 2%.
- Dry or dull skin with acne marks: lactic or mandelic acid 5% to 10%.
- Sensitive or reactive skin: PHA or a mild enzyme product, once a week.
- Darker skin tones: prefer gentler acids and avoid overuse, since irritation can lead to dark marks.
How often should you exfoliate?
For most people, one to three times a week is plenty. Start with once a week and increase after a month if your skin handles it well. If you use a retinoid, you may need only one exfoliating night a week, or none at all. Retinoids already speed up cell turnover. Learn more in our retinoid guide.
Step-by-step: a safe exfoliating night
- Cleanse gently and pat the skin dry.
- Apply a thin layer of your chosen exfoliant, avoiding eyes and lips.
- Wait for the product to absorb, or rinse if it is a wash-off type.
- Apply a calming, hydrating moisturizer.
- Skip other active products that night.
- In the morning, wear SPF 30 or higher. See sunscreen for acne-prone skin.
Signs you are over-exfoliating
- Redness, burning or stinging when applying even gentle products
- Shiny, tight, “plastic” looking skin
- Flaking and rough patches
- More breakouts, or small rash-like bumps
- Increased sensitivity to sun
If you notice these, stop all exfoliants and active ingredients for one to two weeks. Use a gentle cleanser, a plain moisturizer with ceramides, and sunscreen. Return to actives slowly afterwards.
What about face brushes and washcloths?
A soft washcloth is fine for cleansing if you use it lightly. Electric brushes can be too aggressive for acne-prone skin and are best avoided, or used on the lowest setting only a couple of times a week. Never scrub active breakouts. Squeezing and scrubbing are both harmful, as explained in why you should not pop pimples.
Exfoliating body and lips
The skin on the body is thicker than on the face and tolerates stronger products. Salicylic acid or glycolic acid body washes work well for body acne and rough bumps. Lips need only a light touch: a soft cloth with lip balm once a week, at most.
Building exfoliation into a routine
A sensible pattern for acne-prone skin is one exfoliating night, one retinoid night and then one or two rest nights with only moisturizer. For example: Monday BHA, Tuesday rest, Wednesday retinoid, Thursday rest, Friday AHA or BHA, weekend rest. If your skin gets red or dry, remove one of the active nights. Skin that feels comfortable and looks calm is a better sign than skin that tingles.
Ingredients to leave out when exfoliating
On exfoliation night, skip other strong actives such as benzoyl peroxide, vitamin C in high strength and retinoids. Keep the rest of the routine hydrating: a gentle cleanser, a barrier-supporting moisturizer and, the next morning, sunscreen.
Related video
For a look at what happens when clogged pores are cleared by a trained professional, watch this extraction video.
Frequently asked questions
Can I exfoliate if I have active acne?
Yes, with a gentle chemical exfoliant. Avoid scrubs and avoid exfoliating over open or very inflamed spots.
Should I exfoliate before or after cleansing?
After cleansing, on clean, dry skin, for leave-on acids.
Can I mix AHA and BHA?
Some products combine them in low strengths, but using separate strong products together is likely to irritate. Start with one.
Does exfoliating make pores smaller?
It can make them look cleaner, but it does not change their size. See how to minimize pores.
When to see a dermatologist
If your skin remains red, painful or flaky after you stop exfoliating, or you have a rash or swelling, see a doctor. A dermatologist can also advise on stronger in-office peels. This article is general information, not personal medical advice.
